Two Sessions, One Sequence: Pairing HydroDiamond® and Cold Plasma for Acne-Prone Skin
At the core of Mariangel Hospedales’ protocol is a carefully structured sequence in which each step logically follows and supports the one before it.
A visible transformation began after just two sessions: the skin appeared clearer and more even, active breakouts were less pronounced, and post-inflammatory marks were noticeably lighter.
Meet Mariangel Hospedales, Esthetician
This protocol was performed by Mariangel Hospedales, an esthetician with more than 8 years of experience who specializes in skin care for acne-prone skin, melasma, and hyperpigmentation.
Mariangel builds protocols based on skin analysis: what the skin shows, what the client wants, and which sequence of steps will provide the most balanced visible result.
Mariangel builds protocols based on skin analysis: what the skin shows, what the client wants, and which sequence of steps will provide the most balanced visible result.
The cheeks and cheekbones showed densely clustered papules and isolated pustules. Because the skin was showing an inflammatory response, the protocol needed to remain gentle and avoid unnecessary mechanical stress.
Client: male, Fitzpatrick skin type III, combination skin
Primary concern: active breakouts and pore congestion
Visible findings: closed and open comedones, inflammatory lesions, pustules and isolated papules, post-breakout marks, uneven tone
Number of sessions: 2
Protocol goal: clear the pores, smooth the surface, and maintain a more even-looking tone in a darker skin phototype
Primary concern: active breakouts and pore congestion
Visible findings: closed and open comedones, inflammatory lesions, pustules and isolated papules, post-breakout marks, uneven tone
Number of sessions: 2
Protocol goal: clear the pores, smooth the surface, and maintain a more even-looking tone in a darker skin phototype
Uneven Light Reflection
In areas where inflammatory lesions had already subsided, reddish-pink marks remained, while the density of breakouts made the surface appear uneven. These marks persisted longer and contributed to an uneven-looking tone, so they required separate, careful attention.
Pore congestion
Alongside inflammatory lesions were closed and open comedones: sebum and keratin were retained at the follicular openings.
Active inflammatory lesions
Skin Condition and Protocol Goals
What the Skin Showed
Step 3. Manual Extractions
Step 2. Salicylic Acid Peel
Protocol Logic:
Two Sessions, Two Objectives
Two Sessions, Two Objectives
The first session addresses congestion and active lesions. The second session, performed once the skin is less congested, focuses on smoothing the surface and evening the appearance of tone
Session 1 — Cleansing and Congestion-Focused Care
Step 1. Cleansing
What Was Done:
A HydroDiamond® pass was performed next to gently work across the skin’s surface
Why:
This step complemented the previous cleansing and extraction by helping remove residual surface buildup after it had been softened and manually extracted.
What Happened in the Skin:
HydroDiamond® is used on a pre-moistened surface, combining controlled vacuum action with gentle mechanical cleansing. The tip glides smoothly over the skin, helping remove surface buildup and refine the microtexture of the stratum corneum. After the pass, the skin appears cleaner, smoother, and more even.
A HydroDiamond® pass was performed next to gently work across the skin’s surface
Why:
This step complemented the previous cleansing and extraction by helping remove residual surface buildup after it had been softened and manually extracted.
What Happened in the Skin:
HydroDiamond® is used on a pre-moistened surface, combining controlled vacuum action with gentle mechanical cleansing. The tip glides smoothly over the skin, helping remove surface buildup and refine the microtexture of the stratum corneum. After the pass, the skin appears cleaner, smoother, and more even.
Step 4. HydroDiamond® Treatment
What Was Done:
Manual extractions were performed after the peel was removed.
Why:
Extractions were performed after exfoliative preparation, when surface keratin buildup had already been partially softened.
What Happened in the Skin:
Controlled pressure during extraction helps gently release sebum and keratin buildup through the follicular opening. Preparing the skin beforehand helps soften follicular contents, making extraction easier and reducing the need for excessive mechanical pressure.
Manual extractions were performed after the peel was removed.
Why:
Extractions were performed after exfoliative preparation, when surface keratin buildup had already been partially softened.
What Happened in the Skin:
Controlled pressure during extraction helps gently release sebum and keratin buildup through the follicular opening. Preparing the skin beforehand helps soften follicular contents, making extraction easier and reducing the need for excessive mechanical pressure.
What Was Done:
A 20% Mr. Lulu salicylic acid peel was applied for 7–10 minutes based on the skin’s condition. The product was gently distributed with massage motions for up to 3 minutes, then rinsed off with water and the skin was dried.
Why:
Salicylic acid was selected to address pronounced congestion, comedonal buildup, and excess sebum.
What Happened in the Skin:
Salicylic acid is a lipophilic BHA that interacts readily with the skin’s lipid environment. It supports exfoliation of superficial corneocytes and helps soften surface keratin and sebum buildup, preparing the skin for the extraction step that follows.
A 20% Mr. Lulu salicylic acid peel was applied for 7–10 minutes based on the skin’s condition. The product was gently distributed with massage motions for up to 3 minutes, then rinsed off with water and the skin was dried.
Why:
Salicylic acid was selected to address pronounced congestion, comedonal buildup, and excess sebum.
What Happened in the Skin:
Salicylic acid is a lipophilic BHA that interacts readily with the skin’s lipid environment. It supports exfoliation of superficial corneocytes and helps soften surface keratin and sebum buildup, preparing the skin for the extraction step that follows.
What Was Done:
The skin was cleansed with Mr. Lulu Probiotic Powder Cleanser.
Why:
Before a professional peel, it is important to remove sebum, SPF residue, cosmetic products, and surface debris to provide a clean skin surface and allow controlled application of the peel formula.
What Happened in the Skin:
The cleanser’s surfactant ingredients help emulsify and remove lipids and debris from the stratum corneum.
The skin was cleansed with Mr. Lulu Probiotic Powder Cleanser.
Why:
Before a professional peel, it is important to remove sebum, SPF residue, cosmetic products, and surface debris to provide a clean skin surface and allow controlled application of the peel formula.
What Happened in the Skin:
The cleanser’s surfactant ingredients help emulsify and remove lipids and debris from the stratum corneum.
Step 6. Cold Plasma
What Was Done:
A 15-minute cold plasma step was performed using Zemits EvoPlasm.
Why:
Cold plasma was used after cleansing to support a clean skin surface, calm the skin after mechanical manipulation, and prepare it for the next care steps.
What Happened in the Skin:
Cold plasma creates an active plasma environment above the skin’s surface containing reactive oxygen and nitrogen species. This exposure helps condition the cleansed surface, support a balanced appearance, and prepare it for subsequent product application.
A 15-minute cold plasma step was performed using Zemits EvoPlasm.
Why:
Cold plasma was used after cleansing to support a clean skin surface, calm the skin after mechanical manipulation, and prepare it for the next care steps.
What Happened in the Skin:
Cold plasma creates an active plasma environment above the skin’s surface containing reactive oxygen and nitrogen species. This exposure helps condition the cleansed surface, support a balanced appearance, and prepare it for subsequent product application.
Step 5. Repeat Cleansing and Surface Preparation
What Was Done:
The skin was cleansed again with Mr. Lulu Probiotic Powder Cleanser and dried completely before cold plasma.
Why:
The goal was to remove residue from previous products and prepare a clean, dry surface for the next technology.
What Happened in the Skin:
Cleansing removes residual lipids, moisture, and cosmetic formulas from the surface
The skin was cleansed again with Mr. Lulu Probiotic Powder Cleanser and dried completely before cold plasma.
Why:
The goal was to remove residue from previous products and prepare a clean, dry surface for the next technology.
What Happened in the Skin:
Cleansing removes residual lipids, moisture, and cosmetic formulas from the surface
Step 8. Spot Treatment, Vitamin C Moisturizer, and SPF
What Was Done:
A spot treatment was applied to selected areas, followed by a vitamin C moisturizer and sunscreen.
Why:
After an exfoliative session, it is important to finish the protocol with steps that support skin comfort and photoprotection.
What Happened in the Skin:
The moisturizer supports the water balance of the stratum corneum. SPF reduces the amount of ultraviolet radiation that reaches the skin, which is especially important for skin prone to post-inflammatory dark spots.
A spot treatment was applied to selected areas, followed by a vitamin C moisturizer and sunscreen.
Why:
After an exfoliative session, it is important to finish the protocol with steps that support skin comfort and photoprotection.
What Happened in the Skin:
The moisturizer supports the water balance of the stratum corneum. SPF reduces the amount of ultraviolet radiation that reaches the skin, which is especially important for skin prone to post-inflammatory dark spots.
Step 7. Casmara Hydroplastic Mask
What Was Done:
A Casmara hydroplastic mask was applied after EvoPlasm.
Why:
To provide a comfortable finish focused on a more hydrated, calmer-looking appearance.
What Happened in the Skin:
This helps support softness, comfort, and a fresher appearance of the stratum corneum.
A Casmara hydroplastic mask was applied after EvoPlasm.
Why:
To provide a comfortable finish focused on a more hydrated, calmer-looking appearance.
What Happened in the Skin:
This helps support softness, comfort, and a fresher appearance of the stratum corneum.
Step 3. Cold Plasma
Step 2. Miami Peel
Session 2 — Surface Refinement and Uneven-Looking Tone
Step 1. HydroDiamond® Treatment
What Was Done:
A GlyMed clay mask was applied for 15 minutes, then removed.
Why:
The clay mask was used at the end of the session to help absorb excess surface sebum and reduce the appearance of oily shine.
What Happened in the Skin:
The porous structure of clay helps absorb excess sebum and lipid buildup from the skin’s surface. As a result, oily shine appears less pronounced, and the skin looks cleaner and more matte.
A GlyMed clay mask was applied for 15 minutes, then removed.
Why:
The clay mask was used at the end of the session to help absorb excess surface sebum and reduce the appearance of oily shine.
What Happened in the Skin:
The porous structure of clay helps absorb excess sebum and lipid buildup from the skin’s surface. As a result, oily shine appears less pronounced, and the skin looks cleaner and more matte.
Step 4. Clay Mask
What Was Done:
A 15-minute cold plasma step using Zemits EvoPlasm was performed next.
Why:
Cold plasma was included after the exfoliative step, when the surface had been cleansed and prepared.
What Happened in the Skin:
Cold plasma generates reactive oxygen and nitrogen species above the skin’s surface, where they interact with its surface environment. After exfoliation, this exposure helps support skin cleanliness, recovery, and preparation for the next steps in the protocol.
A 15-minute cold plasma step using Zemits EvoPlasm was performed next.
Why:
Cold plasma was included after the exfoliative step, when the surface had been cleansed and prepared.
What Happened in the Skin:
Cold plasma generates reactive oxygen and nitrogen species above the skin’s surface, where they interact with its surface environment. After exfoliation, this exposure helps support skin cleanliness, recovery, and preparation for the next steps in the protocol.
What Was Done:
A 20% Mr. Lulu salicylic acid peel was applied for 7–10 minutes based on the skin’s condition. The product was gently distributed with massage motions for up to 3 minutes, then rinsed off with water and the skin was dried.
Why:
Salicylic acid was selected to address pronounced congestion, comedonal buildup, and excess sebum.
What Happened in the Skin:
Salicylic acid is a lipophilic BHA that interacts readily with the skin’s lipid environment. It supports exfoliation of superficial corneocytes and helps soften surface keratin and sebum buildup, preparing the skin for the extraction step that follows.
A 20% Mr. Lulu salicylic acid peel was applied for 7–10 minutes based on the skin’s condition. The product was gently distributed with massage motions for up to 3 minutes, then rinsed off with water and the skin was dried.
Why:
Salicylic acid was selected to address pronounced congestion, comedonal buildup, and excess sebum.
What Happened in the Skin:
Salicylic acid is a lipophilic BHA that interacts readily with the skin’s lipid environment. It supports exfoliation of superficial corneocytes and helps soften surface keratin and sebum buildup, preparing the skin for the extraction step that follows.
By the second session, the protocol emphasis had shifted. The primary congestion-focused work had already been completed, so the next sequence centered on controlled exfoliation, surface smoothness, and support for a more even-looking tone.
What Was Done:
A HydroDiamond® pass was performed
Why:
The order of steps in the second session was intentionally changed. Preliminary exfoliation helped smooth the surface of the stratum corneum so the peel could be distributed more evenly and act more predictably across the entire treatment area
What Happened in the Skin:
Mechanical exfoliation removes some superficial corneocytes and smooths the microtexture of the stratum corneum, creating a more uniform surface before the next step
A HydroDiamond® pass was performed
Why:
The order of steps in the second session was intentionally changed. Preliminary exfoliation helped smooth the surface of the stratum corneum so the peel could be distributed more evenly and act more predictably across the entire treatment area
What Happened in the Skin:
Mechanical exfoliation removes some superficial corneocytes and smooths the microtexture of the stratum corneum, creating a more uniform surface before the next step
Step 6. Azelaic Acid Serum, Moisturizer, and SPF
What Was Done:
The session was completed with an azelaic acid serum, moisturizer, and SPF.
Why:
The final care was selected to support skin comfort and a more even-looking tone.
What Happened in the Skin:
The moisturizer supports hydration of the stratum corneum, while SPF reduces exposure to UV radiation, which is especially important for skin with post-inflammatory dark spots.
The session was completed with an azelaic acid serum, moisturizer, and SPF.
Why:
The final care was selected to support skin comfort and a more even-looking tone.
What Happened in the Skin:
The moisturizer supports hydration of the stratum corneum, while SPF reduces exposure to UV radiation, which is especially important for skin with post-inflammatory dark spots.
Step 5. Blue LED Light
What was done: After the mask, Zemits VivaLumix was used in Blue LED 415 nm mode for 10 minutes.
Why: As a final light-based step for breakout-prone skin before applying the finishing products.
What happens in the skin: Blue light at 415 nm works primarily within the superficial layers of the skin and supports a clearer, more balanced-looking complexion. After the LED step, the skin appears fresher, calmer, and more even.
Why: As a final light-based step for breakout-prone skin before applying the finishing products.
What happens in the skin: Blue light at 415 nm works primarily within the superficial layers of the skin and supports a clearer, more balanced-looking complexion. After the LED step, the skin appears fresher, calmer, and more even.
After two sessions,
the following were observed:
the following were observed:
Protocol Synergy:
Why It Worked
Why It Worked
- less-pronounced inflammatory lesions;
- lighter post-inflammatory marks;
- a cleaner appearance in congested areas;
- a more even overall skin tone.
- The first session focused on cleansing and reducing congestion.
- The second focused on further refining skin texture and tone.
The result was supported by the sequence of steps and the appropriate combination of technologies. The peel prepared the skin for extraction, extraction prepared it for HydroDiamond®, and the subsequent cleansing and skin preparation created optimal conditions for cold plasma application.
